Shanghai - the Metropole hotel

Shanghai may be going through a renaissance, but it has gone through a "golden age" before.

I refer to the nineteen thirties - the era of "decadent" nightlife, fleets of coolies, opium dens, turf wars, and gangsters called 'Big Eared Lu'. An era when a handful of families, such as the Hardoons and Sassoons, ran the city. And to cater to the high society lifestyle of these "imperialist running dogs" art deco treasures such as the "Peace" and "Cathay" hotels were built - each one the byword for style and luxury. The guidebooks called them "The Claridges of the East".

And so it is with the Metropole Hotel, one of the most famous hotels in Shanghai. Built by Sir Victor Sassoon in 1932 this art deco monolith is redolent of the colonial age. Nowadays it has been renovated and its art deco interior has been restored to its pre-war splendour. Its the last word in art deco - reminding me of Fritz Langs "Metropolis" and this was the place where high society used to gather in the thirties, whiling away their "pink gins" in the ballroom or mirrored bar. Those days have gone although it does give off a faintly colonial air even in the 21st century. And best of all it is affordable to most travellers - a suite at the "Metropole" didn't cost me more then £30 a night.

First of all the location is superb, only two blocks west from 'The Bund' and three blocks south of Nanjing Lu. It is situated on a crossroads where it takes up one corner. 19 Art Deco stories tower over a mass of moving bicycles in the morning and exceptionally helpful conceirges and bellboys help you with you luggage (a tip - get them to get you a taxi to the airport, it will be cheaper). The place oozes class with wood panelling, chandaliers, chrome and a stylish bar. Reception is courteous and efficient though it cannot change up foreign currency apart from American dollars.

The rooms themselves are big and generally have impressive views of the pulsating skyscrapers at night. The furniture is French, white and softwood - there is a TV, AC, wardrobe, trouser press, drinks machine, kettle and complimentary custard tart. The bathroom was marble and pristinely clean - although the bath was designed for petite Chinese bodies not hulking great English ones.

At the Metropole I got the sense of the luxury of the art deco thirties. To me, the place was exquisite and good value. And may get the title of the best hotel I have ever stayed in.