Rishikesh - where the Beatles met the Maharishi

The town's setting is spectacular. It is situated on the banks of the holy Ganga (Ganges) where the Himlayan foothills emerge onto the plain. From the heights of the Sri Nabootha temple you can actually see where the Himalaya's peter out onto the flatness of Uttar Pradesh.

The town itself straddles both banks of the Ganges and is connected by two impressive rope bridges which are always busy with pilgrims, devotees, sadhus and cows. Ashrams dot the forest covered hillside and sadhus (holy men) live in caves on the outskirts, but the majority of visitors are Indian pilgrims on the yatra trail up to the source of the Ganges - the Gangotri glacier. They stop in Rishikesh to take puja at the Triveni ghat or to pray at one of the many temples before continuing their journey.

This means Rishikesh is rather a tourist town now, but you can still find areas of tranquility. And the sense of solace which brought John, Paul, Ringo and George here in 1968 and the start of their psychedelic phase under the Yogi Maharishi.

Rishikesh is rather spread out.

The town of Rishikesh is the most western and commercialised. Here yatra buses stop on their way from Haridwar to the high Himalaya. And pilgrims stock up on necessities for the trip into the mountains. Over the dry river bed is the area known as Rhamjhula whose impressive rope bridge connects to the Swarg Ashram on the eastern bank of the Ganges. Swarg Ashram is the prettier place to stay in Rishikesh with its orchards, ashrams and yoga centres. But further upstream is Laksmanjhula. Here the mountains hug the Ganges and another wobbly rope bridge connects pedestrians with some truly colossal temples.

Remember no vehicles can cross the rope bridges so any autorickshaw which drop you at their western end so you can proceed on foot. This is a strict vegetarian town so no meat or alchol is allowed. But most westerners do not come for that - they come for the sense of peacefulness and Hindu enlightment. Their evenings are not spent in bars but in meditation or yoga lessons.

There is no direct rail connection to Rishikesh. The nearest railhead is in Haridwar 24km to the south. A bus or canter (open bus) for about 40 rupees will get you to the Rhamjhula bridge and from there you will have to walk.

If you are not into "finding yourself" (I found myself years ago..) then Rishikesh is still a fabulous place to relax after the tourist frenzy of Delhi or Agra. And a good place to start or end a holiday. The temples themselves can keep you busy for weeks, as can walks along the Ganges. And very popular are mountaineering and white-water rafting.

The forests of the Rajiji NP touch on Rishikesh and sometimes wild elephants can be seen from the Sri Nabootha temple. But Rishikesh is mainly for Indian tourists and the sight of them floating lit offerings off Triveni ghat in the twilight is an experience you never forget.