I wandered past the Aproador Inn on my second day
in Rio, and thought "What I would give to stay there...?"
And the irony is that I could and did stay there. This find was probably
one of the highlights of my trip to Rio and is literally on the beach. It is
situated on the Aproador headland which interjects between famous Copacabana
and stylish Ipanema beach with expansive views of each for about £30/$45 a
night. But the highlight is the restaurante - there you can sit sipping guava
juice while the beach boardwalk is the other side of the window. A few yards
away will be an open-air gym with men hoisting themselves up on the bars and
kids pushing surfboards deep into the waves.
As for location, the Aproador Inn could not be better. Separating
Copacabana from Ipanema is Rua Francisco Otaviano. This four laned racetrack
carves through the exclusive area of Aproador with it's security guarded
apartment blocks and palm trees. Leading off Francisco Otaviano is Rua Pompeia
(close to 'Le Boy') and NS Copacabana - the great four
kilometre main street of that district. But it is the beach which is most important
here - whichever one you choose you are bound not to be disappointed. At the
Copacabana end is a real life fort, surf-shops and suco bars stand next to it,
and every Saturday is a very pungent fishmarket.
The hotel itself is of sixties pastel architecture with glass doors
leading to a central lobby. The deskstaff are multi-lingual, exceptionally
friendly and thoroughly proffessional. Bellboys in smart uniforms will hail you
a taxi or help you with your luggage for a small tip. There are 56 rooms running
from the standard to the deluxe. All room shave private marble bathroom,
refrigerator, airconditioning, TV with cable channels and safe deposit box. The
bathroom in particular is impressive with marble tiling, power-shower and
complimentary toiletries.
But the main draw is the restaurante. Underneath it's picture windows
runs the boardwalk of Aproador beach. The great rocky headland will grab your
attention as will the life moving up and down this most Brazilian of beaches.
The restaurante itself contains an 'American bar' as well as a breakfast spread
that is included in the price. You can gorge on coffee, chocolate, ham, eggs,
spicy sausages, plus cake and mango. Then the best thing you could do is become
Brazilian - all you need for the beach is speedo trunks, a towel and some
suncream.
One thing while staying here is to climb the headlands. From the rocky
heights you have good views of the sweep of Copacabana to the east
and the great expanse of Ipanema to the west. There is nothing quite like
admiring the granite grained pitons at the Leblon end magnified by morning
sunlight and watching Ipanema waking up for another day of pleasure.
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