Buzios - Pousada Nilceia

Part of the cachet of Buzios are its pousadas or guesthouses. The rich and pampered of Ipanema and Copacabana boast to each other that they are heading up to Buzios to stay in a luxury pousada. This means accommodations in the resort has stratospheric prices and bargains are very few and far between. The best bargain, and one which is in the affordable range, is the Pousada Nilceia. With good sized rooms, a good location, and friendly service--it is all you could ask for in Buzios.

It is literally steps from the bus stop on the south side of town. Buses from Rio arrive five times a day and a simple walk a block west and north takes you to the Rua Manoel de Cavalho which leads into town. It has balconies overlooking the Rua is the Pousada Nilceia. The same people who own this own the Pousada Santa Ana which is a little closer to town. It is owned by an Auntie-like Argentinean woman who speaks fractured English. For 30 reals a night you will get a single room. Doubles are available for 40 reals and both include spotless in-suite bathrooms. Rooms are upstairs and are on either side of a central corridor whose roof is open to the air. In the summer this is natural air conditioning, but in the Spring/late Winter when we were there, it meant the wind can really whistle along the corridor.

The rooms are a good size and linen is promptly changed. The bathrooms are spotless and contain a hot-water shower and white tiled walls. The rooms out front also have a balcony looking down onto the Rua which includes a relaxing hammock. My only quibble is that the balcony is closed off by slats rather then a solid door. This means noise from the traffic roaring below can be deafening. While I was there an election in Brazil was being called which meant lots of cars driving up and down trying to convert the borgeoise of Buzios with loudspeakers. The first night I was there I stuffed toilet tissue into my ears to block out the noise.

I liked this hotel. The staff were friendly and eager to please. Breakfast was free but the pousada did not contain a dining room so you had to trek to its sister pousada--the Santa Ana--which was just down the street. The breakfast area is in a courtyard with television watched over by an ample woman of Bahian extraction. She will serve you coffee, chocolate, fresh melon, pineapple chunks, ham, cheese, rolls, and fresh orange or guava juice.

It's a good way to start the day before sunbathing in Buzios. Pousada Nilceia is one of the few budget options in Buzios. The quality of service here is just as good as one of the big pousadas and at a fraction of their price.