Delhi - Hotel Kailash and the zoo

My intinery of India was put together by a very good Kashmiri travel agent, who on my return to Delhi from Rajasthan, suggested a better grade of hotel. With strong memories of Hotel Palace Heights in Connaught Place where I stayed when I first arrived - with its box rooms, traffic noise and huge monkeys on the stairwell - I leaped at the offer.

The poshest part of New Delhi is Sundar Nagar. This is a leafy cul-de-sac with a park and surrounded by embassies, mansions and classy hotels. My hotel - the Kailash - was tucked away in this verdant enclave and for 1200 rupees a night (about £25, the cost of a normal hotel in Vienna or Barcelona, and the cost of a hostel bed in London) I got four-star accommodation.

The rooms were in separate bungalows and were very nice. They have killer air-conditioning, cable television, huge double-beds, a coffin-like bath and shower and portraits of the maharajahs on the walls. The food was excellent and one of the pleasures was sitting out in the garden enjoying the sun while tucking into my mutton biryani with big juicy onions

The whole tone of the hotel was set by a huge garden. This thing was immense and dominated the hotel. The staff seemed very nice but due to the monsoon Delhi was full of rainwater. Which meant the bedroom flooding at one point and being moped up by the staff. The next day was pure sunshine so I spent it recovering in the heat. I even had my meals served there. It is quite a thrill tucking into your paperback as the waiter brings you meal on a serving day.

If you get bored, Sundar Nagar backs onto the Delhi zoo, a short walk away down the Mathura Road. I would thoroughly recommend this as you will see the animals you didn’t manage to see at Bharatpur or Corbett. The zoo is built on land between the Purana Qila and the railway tracks. Its full of animals not in cages but running about - kites flutter above the trees, ground squirrels scurry around, peacocks can be heard and a flash of mongoose can be seen as it runs for cover.

The enclosures are surrounded by water and you can catch up with nilgai and blackbuck.A huge herd of sambar lay in the grass with inquisitive does watching the visitors. Next door was a creature I would love the see in the wild - the Indian rhino. Chitawan in Nepal is the nearest place to spot them . He had a large enclosure full of peacocks and looked like he had his skin put on by a riveter.

I wanted to see the big cats. When I reached the lions they were hidden in the dingy interior, struggling to get air from the enormous fan blowing their cage. Still haven't seen the tiger...

I am going to need a trip to Corbett, a weeks holiday and certain amount of luck to see one