Way back in the late
1960s and early '70s, Istanbul was the start of the "Hippy Trail"
From here, travelers would pass across Turkey, Jordan, Iraq, Iran, Afghanistan (imagine doing that today?) and ended up in Nepalese Kathmandu or on the Indian beaches of Goa. Those about to attempt this journey of at least two months, would gather at the Pudding Shop which acted as an unofficial travellers' centre for those about to take the plunge. Before the days of travel guides, they would seek advice from those who had already done it or a travelers' noticeboard. This small restaurant in the heart of Sultanhammet took the place of the internet or, dare I say it?, Igougo?
Of course in the 21st century, the hippies have long gone. The restaurant itself is a nice little canteen situated opposite Sultanhammet mosque and the Hippodrome. Instead of the hippy trail, it is on the tour party trail. They pile in here at lunchtime after Topkapi and taste the moderate Turkish food on sale. It is a place to say that you have "been too" rather then a great restaurant in itself. It also, rightly, trades on its past with newspaper cuttings and old pictures adorning the walls. If your restaurant becomes a travelers' legend then why not profit from it?
From here, travelers would pass across Turkey, Jordan, Iraq, Iran, Afghanistan (imagine doing that today?) and ended up in Nepalese Kathmandu or on the Indian beaches of Goa. Those about to attempt this journey of at least two months, would gather at the Pudding Shop which acted as an unofficial travellers' centre for those about to take the plunge. Before the days of travel guides, they would seek advice from those who had already done it or a travelers' noticeboard. This small restaurant in the heart of Sultanhammet took the place of the internet or, dare I say it?, Igougo?
Of course in the 21st century, the hippies have long gone. The restaurant itself is a nice little canteen situated opposite Sultanhammet mosque and the Hippodrome. Instead of the hippy trail, it is on the tour party trail. They pile in here at lunchtime after Topkapi and taste the moderate Turkish food on sale. It is a place to say that you have "been too" rather then a great restaurant in itself. It also, rightly, trades on its past with newspaper cuttings and old pictures adorning the walls. If your restaurant becomes a travelers' legend then why not profit from it?
First of all, its setting is perfect at the start of Divan Yolu and within easy walking distance of the big sights of Sultanhammet. Its open to the street and has been renovated in brown wood. The restaurant has a light breezy air and the air of relaxation is helped by the canteen system where you pick out the food you wish. The menu is gentle Turkish with stuffed vine leaves or Russian salad for starters, vegetables with rice and lamb with potatoes/vegetables for main course, and chocolate pudding for desert. Along with a cold beer, it costs no more then 16 Turkish lira.
There are not too many seats downstairs but upstairs has about thirty more, although the stairs take some navigating carrying a heavy tray. I found a seat next to framed newspaper cuttings from 1969. There, the Daily Mirror was doing an article on the new phenomenon of hippies and their trek across Eurasia. The modern equivalent of the hippy, "the backpacker", is still in evidence in Istanbul. There are a number of travel agencies in Divan Yolu doing trips to the battlefields of Gallipoli, Ephesus, or the fairy chimneys of Cappadocia.
Istanbul does sometimes feel like a frontier town. The last semblance of Europe before heading off into the exotic east. The spirit of adventure lives on
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