Sunday, June 22, 2014

Ilha Grande - Tropical paradise with an eerie past



Ilha Grande is one of the most stunningly beautiful islands you can visit in Brazil. It is toted as 100% stress free with it's bountiful beaches, steamy rainforest, rolling mountains, and colonial architecture. It was cut off from the outside world for a long time and had an eerie reputation, meaning that tourists have only been allowed to visit. This means the island is pristine. The signs of mass tourism have not encroached on Ilha Grande making it an adventure for the independent traveler.

Ilha Grande is only accessible by ferry from the coastal town of Angros Dos Reis. Two ferries a day connect it with the little town of Agraao on Ilha Grande. The town itself is charming with soaring green pitons as a backdrop and it is stretched along a golden palm-fringed beach. The island is a place to kick back--to forget about the outside world and not just suntanning, but hiking and SCUBA diving are very popular. There are over 100 beaches on the island, most, like the gorgeous Lopes Mendes, require a boat to reach.
And what about the eerie repuation? Visitors have only been allowed since 1994, as before that it was a penal island. The word is that political prisoners were held on Ilha Grande, and mysterious ruins dot the jungle from this period. Even further back it was Brazil's quarantine station, a leper colony, and before that a pirate nest used by the infamous Jorge Grego. The only hidden treasures today are wide beaches, excellent diving, hummingbirds and monkeys, and the chance to kick back and enjoy the feeling of all stress drop away.
Ilha Grande is only accessible by ferry which departs from Angros dos Reis harbor at 10:05am and 3:15pm. The journey takes about two hours and you will pass through the Costa Verde (green coast) national park with it's jungle islands and azure waters. Ilha Grande itself is stunning, mile after mile of mountains with Atlantic rainforest stretching to their very peaks.
You will probably stay in the beautiful town of Agraao. The charm of colorful houses, palm trees, a simple church, and pretty pousadas can be overwhelming. Like I said, tourists have only been allowed on since 1994, so you are still an attraction to the isolated islanders. Get to Ilha Grande now, as five years down the line all this will have changed.


Pousadas abound on the island. If you arrive without booked accommodation, you can take advantage of the touts/hawkers who meet the ferry who will take you to a free room. Also around the harbor are numerous boat trips costing about 50 reals for the day. Each beach can be hiked from Agraao through jungle trails, but it is far less strenuous and exhausting to be deposited and collected by boat.
I travelled there with the SouthAmericanExperience bus (see separate journal). Their route leaves Rio and reaches Angros dos Reis about 3:00pm just in time to catch the ferry. Angros dos Reis is a pleasant town stretching up surrounding hills. From here you can carry on to the colonial city of Paraty or head into coffee country. You can catch a bus at the main bus stop as you enter the town including Sao Paulo (4 hours) and Rio de Janeiro (1.5 hours). Cheap hotels abound and money-changers and banks are along Rua do Commercial. The ferry is a huge catamaran carrying 200 people and only costs 4 reals to the island. If you can get a seat near the front as the views of the Costa Verde and its blue waters is beautiful.
There are a number of mercados and restaurants on the island. The focus during the evening is the main praca and the church is lit up with fairy lights. The bar/restaurante 'Verdinho da Ilha' seems to be where everyone ends up. The food and beer here are superb as is the 'forro' music which may get you out of your seat and start dancing.




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