Where
La Ramblas spills into the port is one of the most exciting vistas in the
Mediterranean. Here lies the old Port Vell now resurrected as a chi-chi harbour
bristling with yachts and sailing ships. Ferries from the Balearics glide in
and cable cars whisk tourists up to the heights of Montjuic. But most visitors
enjoy the gentrification which allows them to enjoy the sea of sails in the
marina and its clean pavement and modernist sculpture.
The Port Vell
starts where La Ramblas ends and the Barri Gotic touches the seashore to create
Rambla del Mar. Around the monument de Colom a small market is set up and the
cream coloured baroque of the Reial Drassanes could be seen. But most of the
crowds follow the continuation of La Rambla across the shiny high-tech bridge
to the Port Vell. In its centre is a new shopping centre/entertainment complex
called the Maremagnum. Surrounded by sailing ships this is most welcome and the
view on the far side of the old wharves and still water was in contrast with
the bustle of Rambla del Mar. The indoor shopping centre contained restaurants,
FC Barcelona shops and tapas bars and contains CINE, IMAX (which was good) and
the impressive L''Aquarium. On its far side is the Moll D''Espanya walkway
(taking you past an 19th century submarine) which leads to more marinas and
yachts. You can walk all the way to Barcelonetta and its fish restaurants from
here.
But the
highlight for me was L''Aquarium. Rather expensive at 1400 pesetas - this was a
wonderful couple of hours and a very high-tech aquarium. You enter through a
tropical forest into rooms shrouded in darkness. I couldn''t help but notice
the natural behaviour of the inhabitants. Not surprising as their habitats were
painstakingly recreated. Catching my eye were small fish eating starfish,
anemones, lionfish and a tank full of squiggly octopi. But the best part was a
gargantuan tank full of mullet, moray eels, tarpon, saucer fish (silver, big
and as flat as a pancake) and a number of huge bull sharks. The tank was so big
that a moving walkway carried you through a perspex tunnel and you could watch
the bristling teeth of a bull shark as it swam above you. Now what shall I have
for dinner tonight....fish?
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