Rio de Janeiro - beach in the shadow of the Sugarloaf

The best advice I can give about the Rio beaches is not to take anything -- everything will come to you.

Whether you need sun oil, cans of Coke, or aromatic garlic prawns on a skewer, sooner or later a hawker will approach. All human life is catered for on Rio's beaches, and the Praia Velhelmo is a secret one. Ideal for families, it boasts one of the best locations in Rio, under the famous Sugarloaf Mountain. So you can lie down in the sun and enjoy your coco verts while the famous cable cars clank their way overhead.

Taxis from Zona Sul should not cost more than 10 reals. You can catch a bus to Rio Sul Mall from there -- it is a ten-minute walk to the south – and Avenida Pasteur. Where Avenida Pasteur finishes at the Sugarloaf cable-car station is Praca General Tibuna. You are now in a military area, which means it is very safe and a wonderful place for kids to be let loose.

Most people head for the cable-car station, but the western side of the Praca turns into the golden beach of Praia Velhelmo. The entire thing is enclosed and hidden away. One of the forgotten beaches of Rio, but a good place to remember once you have done the summit of the Pao de Acuador.

The sand is golden in colour, and when the sun shines, the sea turns sapphire. The surf is gentle here, and it is perfect for families. I do envy Cariocas; whenever they get a spare moment, they head for the beach. Next to me was a family enjoying themselves, and I love the fact that cellulite isn't commented on on Brazilian beaches. The beaches are for all, and physical appearance is not a prerequisite (unlike some European countries - cough, Italy, cough). I thoroughly enjoyed watching a man swing his child around in the surf. The great safety valve of a city like Rio has to be its beaches.

When you have had enough, there is a superb walk that follows the base of the Sugarloaf Mountain. The Claudio Coutinhotrail weaves its way above the beach. The track gives superb views of the cable-car station and Praia Velhelmo. The view across to the Morro de Babilonia was superb, and you could see the other islands out in Guanabara Bay. Time drifts by as you enjoy the views, the ripening breadfruit, and the waves crashing on the rocks below...