Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Buzios - Lapping the Brazilian sun on Praia dos Ossos



I must admit, I am not really a beach person. I'd far rather go poking around a baroque church or a crumbling castle then sit on hot sand basting myself in cooking oil. But in Buzios I made an exception. The beaches here were so chic and unspoilt that I ended up doing what every else ends up doing and spent a morning worshipping the sun god.

Praia do Ossos is my favorite beach in Buzios. It may not have the glamour of Jao Fernandez or the surfers of Geriba, but when I was there in early spring it was deserted and seemed like a little hidden secret. Of course, it isn't, and in the summer it is overun with fellow sunseekers. So many in fact that you cannot move - and the mayor of Buzios appears on television pleading with people not to come. This year may be different - the majority of visitors are Argentine, and the economy of that country at the moment is in turmoil. Buzios may echo to the sounds of Portuguese rather then Spanish this coming year.

Ossos is within easy walking distance of Rua de Perata - head east from the pier along the sea walk to the statue of Brigitte Bardot. Before the statue the roads will split to climb the promontory. The one to the right is Azedinha Alzeda, head left along the walk, up the hill to the Catholic church. This church is quite beautiful - blue and white - with angel statuary dotting the grounds, palm trees, and a superb view of Praia dos Ossos. From here you can see the curve of Ossos and the trail down backs the beach, circumnavigates it, and heads even further west over more headlands.




Ossos is rather a small beach - only 200 feet long. The bay is surrounded by forested headlands and claims golden sands and fishing boats bob in the water not far from shore. Strolling couples wander the trail and are overlooked by glass-fronted houses, barracas, and speeding beach buggies. The famous Brazilian beach culture had not quite woken up, but there were enough people here to enjoy the beaches and sun.

I found a spot next to a fishing boat which provided protection from the wind. On went the sunscreen, off came the shorts, and out came a paperback. I could feel the rays relax me as I tucked into one of my 'keep me occupied" books. The sand was so soft underneath and I felt time slip by as I lazed in the Brazilian sunshine. There are not the hawkers on Ossos that there are on Ipanema or Copacabana, so for food I headed to a nearby barraca. There I was fixed up with a delicious grilled chicken sandwich and a pineapple/orange milkshake which was whisked in front of my eyes. Then back to the beach for more sunbathing.




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