On
visiting India, for once in my life I could afford four-star accommodation.
We picked the exquisite Amar Yatri Niwas while
we were in Agra. This cool air-conditioned hotel was a real tonic after viewing
the Fort and the Taj Mahal and a welcome retreat from the chaos of Agra
outside.
Not used to such
luxury we were caught out as bell-boys took our backpacks up to our rooms and
the staff were so kind and courteous. The rooms themselves were marvellous with
television, shower, killer-air conditioning and room service. The restaurant
was enjoyable and the lobby inlaid with marble. There was a fine portrait of
Shah Jahan gazing wistfully at the Taj Mahal on the wall.
But outside was
the chaos of Agra.
Our road had most of the tourist luxury hotels
- next door was a Pizza Hut – which had to be checked out. The predations of
the rickshaw drivers were just as persistent here and they prowl up and down
the road looking for followers. We took one up on an evening trip to Taj Ganj
where we wanted to take a look at the backpacker scene there. How very
different, the streets were very narrow and crammed with hotels. But the
street-hassle was intense - people trying to sell us carpets, drugs, tickets,
postcards. Autorickshaw drivers began following
us up onto the pavement eager to get the fare. It was the most intense we
experienced since leaving Connaught Place in Delhi.
But as with most
of India you weather it or go mad.
And we found a
terrific hotel with a rooftop restaurant giving us amazing views of the Taj
Mahal. Night had fallen and the great dome and minarets were illuminated. And
we could sit down with a biryani and lassi and watch the great building in the
moonlight.
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