I
must admit, I am not really a beach person. I'd far rather go poking around a
baroque church or a crumbling castle then sit on hot sand basting myself in
cooking oil. But in Buzios I made an exception. The beaches here were so chic
and unspoilt that I ended up doing what every else ends up doing and spent a
morning worshipping the sun god.
Praia do Ossos
is my favorite beach in Buzios. It may not have the glamour of Jao Fernandez or
the surfers of Geriba, but when I was there in early spring it was deserted and
seemed like a little hidden secret. Of course, it isn't, and in the summer it
is overun with fellow sunseekers. So many in fact that you cannot move - and
the mayor of Buzios appears on television pleading with people not to come.
This year may be different - the majority of visitors are Argentine, and the
economy of that country at the moment is in turmoil. Buzios may echo to the
sounds of Portuguese rather then Spanish this coming year.
Ossos is within
easy walking distance of Rua de Perata - head east from the pier along the sea
walk to the statue of Brigitte Bardot. Before the statue the roads will split
to climb the promontory. The one to the right is Azedinha Alzeda, head left
along the walk, up the hill to the Catholic church. This church is quite
beautiful - blue and white - with angel statuary dotting the grounds, palm
trees, and a superb view of Praia dos Ossos. From here you can see the curve of
Ossos and the trail down backs the beach, circumnavigates it, and heads even
further west over more headlands.
Ossos is rather
a small beach - only 200 feet long. The bay is surrounded by forested headlands
and claims golden sands and fishing boats bob in the water not far from shore.
Strolling couples wander the trail and are overlooked by glass-fronted houses,
barracas, and speeding beach buggies. The famous Brazilian beach culture had
not quite woken up, but there were enough people here to enjoy the beaches and
sun.
I found a spot
next to a fishing boat which provided protection from the wind. On went the
sunscreen, off came the shorts, and out came a paperback. I could feel the rays
relax me as I tucked into one of my 'keep me occupied" books. The sand was
so soft underneath and I felt time slip by as I lazed in the Brazilian
sunshine. There are not the hawkers on Ossos that there are on Ipanema or
Copacabana, so for food I headed to a nearby barraca. There I was fixed up with
a delicious grilled chicken sandwich and a pineapple/orange milkshake which was
whisked in front of my eyes. Then back to the beach for more sunbathing.
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