Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Ilha Grande - Swing in a hammock with hummingbirds flitting around




Can there be any greater pleasure in life then swinging in a hammock?

Life seems to slow down at Ilha Grande's only hostel. They say the island is 100% stress free and here you can kick back and watch hummingbirds buzz around the flowers and fruit ripen slowly on the trees.
For a small price you can buy a little time in this paradise. The hostel is one of the best deals in Agraao, and if you don't fancy one of the plentiful pousadas on the island, then this is a good option. It consists of a main building containing three dorms and six cabanas scattered around the garden. It is the last building before the jungle-covered mountain backing onto Agraao and some of the rainforest seeps into the hostel





. The buildings blend with the slope of the mountain including a huge great boulder poking through the veranda of the main structure. The veranda itself is made of teakwood, hung with hammocks, and lined with bookcases and writing tables. From here, the garden flows down a slope and incorporates natural elements--huge banana trees, lianas, shrubs, and brightly-colored flowers.

The hostel is owned by an islander called Jorge. This silver-haired saint looks after all the guests' needs and is joined by a boisterous cocker spaniel. If he knows you are coming, then he will meet the ferry and lead you personally to the hostel. The accommodation is top notch, including a segregated dorms with clean bathrooms and singular cabanas dotted around the gardens. The cabanas are of a reasonable size and contain their own bathrooms. The dorms cost 15 reals per night, and the cabanas 30--breakfast included. This spread is exceptional. You can sit outside on a huge table and devour rolls, ham, and cheese washed down with fresh guava juice. And I will never get used to the Brazilian habit of having cake for breakfast.
The hostel is situated at the back of Agraao and is a little tricky to find. From the ferry pier, head west and walk past the main praca. Head inland for ten minutes until you reach a white church, turn right, head uphill, bend left into the jungle, and cross a small bridge. The cracked track will continue until you take the left, turning to the hostel. It's a long walk with heavy luggage. It is also a good idea to memorize the route when you go back into town. After a couple of Brahma beers at the 'Verdinho da Ilha,' and a little bit of dancing to 'Bossa Nova' finding your way back in the dark can be an adventure to say the very least.


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