How
can you describe the Taj Mahal? You can't--it's impossible.
You
just have to experience it. To gaze in wonder at that magnificent dome and
elegant gardens will be a moment that you remember for the rest of your life.
It is one of the greatest sights in the world, some say the greatest, and like
Victoria Falls, The Grand Canyon, and Macchu Picchu, it simply is one of those
things you have to see in your life. The architectural grace and symmetry of
the Taj Mahal just takes your breath away.
Like all great
buildings, there is a story behind it. And it cannot get any more romantic than
the Taj Mahal. Shah Jahan was the most charismatic and cultured of the Moghuls.
He spent vast revenues on building projects all over northern India. And when
his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal, died, he was so devastated that his beard
turned white overnight. He set out to create an unsurpassed eternal monument to
her memory, and construction commenced in 1632. It took 20,000 men, until 1652,
to create what you see before you. Shah Jahan did not have long to enjoy his
wife's mausoleum, as he was deposed by his austere son Aurangzeb and locked
away in the Agra Fort. There he stood at the pavilions, gazing sadly at the Taj
in the distance.
All tourists
make their way to the Taj sooner or later, and there are plenty of ways to get
there, including walking from Taj Ganj. The best way I feel is by
cycle-rickshaws, which are often pedalled by some of the poor in Agra, and your
fare is very welcome. From ground level you cannot see the Taj, as it is
surrounded by high red walls, but after you have paid your admittance you can
enter the first courtyard, the Chowk-I-Kilo Kham. These courtyards are full of
green lawns and towering archways.
You almost
unobtrusively pass through the last archway, and then you see the Taj Mahal...
What is
immediately striking is its graceful symmetry--geometric lines run through
formal gardens, ending in a white marble platform. Atop this platform is a
great white bulbous dome complemented by four towering minarets in each corner.
The whole image shimmers in a reflecting pool flanked by beautiful gardens--the
whole effect is magical. The first stretch by the reflecting pool is where most
people pose for their photos. But we were impressed by the fresh green gardens
and how Muslim the Taj looked. Doesn't the Koran say that paradise is a verdant
garden? As you approach through the gardens, two mosques come into view
flanking the Taj, both exqusitely carved and built of red sandstone. But
everybody wants to find the famous spot where the east-west pool crosses the
the north-south watercourse in a small pool surrounded by benches. This was the
spot Princess Diana famously posed to show the sham of her marriage in front of
the world's greatest monument to love...
We strolled up
to the plinth and joined the tourists climbing the stairs to the platform.
Shoes have to be removed upon entrance to the mausoleom and your bare feet bake
when touching the hot white marble. We had chosen our visit carefully--the sun
was setting and the light that washed over the Taj was golden in colour. The
minarets were now stark against the setting sun (see photo). The actual dome
was a surprise; it is not yellow-white but blue-white and covered in
inscriptions and detail. From below it looked like something out of "Arabian
Nights." But inside were the tombs of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan. The
central tomb is a lofty chamber with light streaming through fine latticework,
and hanging above was an elaborate Cairene lamp.
We came back the
next day and spent more time at the Taj; we ended up spending 4 hours there
altogether. And we know that when we return to India, we will go back again.
Words cannot describe its beauty when you stand on that marble platform
overlooking the Yamuna, with the setting sun turning it into a golden ribbon.
You may also agree that this is the most beautiful building in the world.
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