There
is more to Toledo than ancient history, its modern history is impressive too.
For this was one of the more memorable
battlegrounds of the civil war. Where Franco's nationalists held out in a
bitter siege against an overwhelming Republican onslaught and the Alcazar was
nearly destroyed in the fighting. No trip to Toledo is complete without a trip
to the Alcazar(castle)and the views of the surrounding Castilean plain are
sensational from its windows.
The
four-cornered Renaissance Alcazar de Toledo is the pride of Spain. Originally
built by the powerful Charles V, this served as a military garrison in a
conservative town for hundreds of years but its great moment of fame came in
the 20th century. When the Spanish civil war broke out most of Castile plumped
for the republicans, however the military garrison at Toledo, headed by General
Moscardo, threw in with the Franco's fascist nationalists and were forced to
retreat to the Alcazar. The siege lasted three months with the republicans
hurling everything at the building in an attempt to get the nationalists out.
Franco had to divert an army to relieve the nationalists, which in turn gave
Madrid enough time to put up the barricades and stay republican until the end
of the war. But the siege became a symbol of the Franco regime and it was
embellished and made into a legend. Even the National newspaper changed its
name to Alcazar in its honour.
Although visible
from most places in Toledo the Alcazar is still hard work to find due to the
narrow winding streets. Once you have climbed the horseramp, now used by jeeps
and military vehicles, you can pay your money and step inside. The Alcazar is
still owned by the military and contains the Ejerito (Army) museum. You can
wander around the rooms and see models and photos of the Alcazar after the
siege and Franco greeting General Moscardo amongst the rubble. Upstairs was a
room left in exactly the same state as it was on the last day of the siege -
the ceiling was shredded, the walls peppered and along one wall was the famous
telephone used by General Moscardo. The republicans had hold of his son and
threatened to shoot him if he did not surrender the Alcazar. His reply was;
"I love you son, but die like a man for the
glory of Spain..."
History is
written by the victors and this incident gave a powerful propaganda tool to the
eventual winners - the nationalists. Most of the musuem does date from the
1940's, and could probably do with an overhaul, but half the fascination is the
way it was used to serve the Franco regime. As you continued to wander around
in glass cases there were home-made grenades, huge books shredded by bullets,
crude knives and a gruesome-looking operating table. The cellars of the Alcazar
were left as they were, as barracks, civilian quarters and hospitals, and the
sacks that people slept on were still kept on the floor. I noticed alot of
grandfathers showing their grandchildren around the Alcazar. Whatever you think
of the politics, it must have been a harrowing ordeal.
Needless to say,
we came away from the Alcazar impressed and very thoughtful. If you come to
Toledo, even for the day, you must visit to the Alcazar....
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