Melbourne - Claremont hotel

What would be your worst nightmare while staying at a hotel? Surely the fire alarm going off while you were in the shower would be close.

This happened at the Claremont while I was staying there. I was already dressed when the fire alarm went off, but others were not so lucky. The sight of bleary-eyed guests standing around reception in towels was not one I will forget in a while.

But it is a very good hotel. Without a doubt, it was one of the best things about my stay in Marvelous Melbourne. For starters, the location is brilliant, only a few steps west to the entrance to South Yarra train station. The entrance is simply a door on to the street--one, however, with Victorian wrought iron work, leading into a reception with a rich quilted carpet, portraiture on the walls and a grand staircase leading up. The staircase leads up to two floors of rooms. I had a single room without a bathroom, and it was tastefully decorated with pine floors, white linen, and a wrought iron bed and shelves.

The bathroom across the hall is clean and well looked after. Downstairs is a very helpful reception where tours to the "Twelve Apostles" and Phillip Island can be made. The staff is very helpful and a security code is given for the door at night. Due to its modest rates, it has a lot of families or school parties, and these can be encountered in the restaurant area. Breakfast is part of the deal and consists of cereal, orange and toast, which you can spread with the very Australian vegemite. There is also a webcafe, small library and reading area.

But the main attraction is the location--smack bang in the middle of trendy South Yarra. This is one of the most expensive and hippest parts of Melbourne, and the Claremont looks out onto the boutiques and restaurants of the Toorak Road. The Toorak Road is sprinkled with beauty salons, designer shopping and expensive restaurants. A couple of steps to the west is the train station, which whisks you into the Melbourne CBD, and a 5-minute walk to the east is the trendy Chapel Street, which is the address to be seen at. Chapel Street is full of Australian fashion "names" and the uber-trendy Jam Factory,with its boutiques and one-off shops.

The Claremont is in the heart of the action. I was very impressed.

Masai Mara - Greatest Show on Earth

Within minutes of entering this vast reserve I encountered so much game my mouth dropped open in astonishment.

Armies of wildebeest stretching to the horizon, elephants getting stressed with each other and bellowing their concern with high decibels, lions sleeping off a kill at a muddy waterhole, spooked Impala bounding into the bush, a lone vulture sihouetted against the sunset and Maasai striding across the plains with their spears and red cloaks billowing behind them. 

The Masai Mara is the greatest wildlife show on earth.

I had to pinch myself that I was there. I’d seen the reserve on the television so many times. It is a staple of Sunday afternoon documentaries on the BBC where a hushed David Attenborogh would show us hordes of wildebeest brave the Mara river crossing targeted by hungry crocodiles, where packs of hyenas would force lions away from their nearby kill, where zebra stallions would round up their mares and fight off any other male contenders, where cheetahs would outsprint "Tommie" gazelles tripping up their hind legs and making them crash to the ground. 

For most of my life the Masai Mara has been a distant dream only available to rich tourists or BBC filmakers. But it wasn’t – it is possible to visit and enjoy all the drama and spectacle of African wildlife. Of the four big gameparks I visited in Africa that September – this was the first and remains the favourite.
Its situated in the south of Kenya, about 150 miles from Nairobi. It is the northern part of the Serengeti Plains which covers northern Tanzania. The border between the two countries is about a mile north of the Mara River - a hippo infested waterway where hungry crocs await prey. The prey is of course the two million or so wildebeest which visit every year from the Serengeti. The long rains arrive in the Masai Mara between July and October creating fresh grass. The huge herds of wildebeest smell the rain and trek northwards in their millions – they turn south in October and leave the Mara as quickly as they arrive.

So the best time to visit the Mara is during the migration. Words can’t describe the sheer immensity of the wildebeest during this time – they literally turn the plains black with their numbers. Not only wildebeest but zebra and "Thompson" gazelle. This of course is Christmas come early for the predators and the Mara supports huge lion prides (some of which are stars of the BBC’s Big Cat Diary). There was so many lions in the Mara that you could spot one under nearly every bush. There are also big clans of hyenas (no joke hearing them at night), jackals, cheetahs, and leopards at the Talek river. Not to mention colossal flocks of sinister vultures.

There are also plenty of tourists but away from the Sekengani Gate doesnt create a problem. There are so many game lodges in the Mara that you dont encounter too many tourists (unless there is rare game like cheetah or leopard). Some of the game lodges are expensive like the world famous ‘Governors Camp’ but their are budget options such as "Riverside" camp where the animals and Maasai wander through.

A word about the Maasai. This is the heart of Kenyan Maasai territory and while they are integrated into the tourist scene you are aware that this is their territory. On the road down from Nairobi (a bone rattling ride) you are almost travelling through a Maasai nation. Every horizon had a Maasai herder and his flock of goats. They wave at you as you drive past – especially the children. You will encounter the Maasai "bomas" which are mud huts surrounded by a ring of thorny walls where the cattle are kept each night. There are also Maasai towns, the main one being Narok, where you can stay in hotels made out of breeze-blocks called "Manchester United" hotel and "Sam’s Hotel and Butchers".

The best thing to do is book an inclusive safari in Nairobi. That way they take care of entrance fees, accommodation for you and most importantly can take you to the game. Nothing beats spinning around the tracks in a open-topped safari van to see where Topi graze, hyenas crunch bones or where buffalo glare at you.
And when the sun goes down even those in the luxury lodges will hear the sound of the night – the bray of zebras, the rasp of a leopard and the roaring of lions. Never in your life will you be so close to nature.

The Masai Mara is a contender for my favourite place in the world.

Madrid - the most exciting capital city in Europe!

Of all the capitals emerging in Europe - Madrid is the most exciting.

 It spent 40 years under the Franco shroud and then burst forth in the 1980's with 'La Movida' immortalised by Pedro Almodovar in his movies. Its central core still consists of red-roofed 17th century houses with balconies and azulejas. And the great Gran Via sweeps across town with its cinemas, restaurants and stores. Just off this is the impressive baroque - Plaza Mayor. A grand 17th Century square which once housed bullfights and now caters to tired tourists with cafes and restaurants. And in the evening Madrid has nightlife to put every other city to shame. It starts moving about midnight and winds down eight hours later. You need stamina and a good sense of fun - all part of the wonderful Madrid experience.

Accommodation is not a problem in Madrid. I have never known a city with so many spare hotel beds. And you can rustle up one for 3,000 pesetas or more. The cheapest beds are found in the districts of Cheuca and Malasana, two atmospheric working class districts north of the Gran Via. The Gran Via is the great entertainment avenue of the capital and you will pass its way more than once to enjoy its department stores and restaurants.

At its western end is the Palacio Real and Campo de Moro (Field of the Moor) at its east is the north-south Paseo del Prado housing the great art museums of the Prado, Museo Theyssen-Bornezia and the Reine Sofia which houses Picasso's 'Guernika'. But above all Madrid is a good city in which to live - wonderful restaurants, terrific nightlife, bustling streets, good work opportunities - in my opinion - it is up there with London, Paris and New York. After visiting the city I wondered how why my Spanish friends in London ever wanted to leave...

Despite the locals grumbling the public transport infrastructure of Madrid is excellent. The airport bus will drop you at Plaza Espanya and from there it is a metro ride into town. Taxis are plentiful and are striped white and yellow and the fares are very good value. And the buses, well you can get a bus to anywhere in Spain from Madrid and each of the terminals is the end of a metro line.

For excursions outside Madrid, to El Escorial Herranz bus 144 runs from underneath Moncloa metro station to the monastery and to Toledo there are frequent trains from Atocha station. But as with all great cities you must walk. Nothing beats a stroll through Puerto del Sol in the early evening with its crowds gearing up for serious nightlife ahead. The hustle, bustle and energy of this marvellous city make it simply irresistible 

London - The Tate Modern - views of the Thames

Edina and Patsy from 'Absolutely Fabulous' would love the new Tate Modern.

 But then so does everybody else - it received one million visitors in the first month of it's opening and along with the 'London Eye' has been the big hit of Millennium year. Critics have praised it and the public love it. Even if you don't like or understand modern art the new Tate Modern is worth crossing the channel, or even the Atlantic, to take a look.

The collection of modern British art outgrew its old home in Pimlico and was moved from the gallery now christened the Tate Britain to the new gallery. It stands in a converted power station on the south bank of the Thames opposite St Pauls. It is a striking landmark with a great colossal bulk and a central freestanding chimney that towers above the river. It was converted by the Swiss architects Herzog and Meuron who turned a derelict power station into a sparkling new art gallery.

To reach it is very easy. It forms the focus of most people's wander along the Thames Walk so you could walk to it from Waterloo if you arrive on the Eurostar. But from another part of London alight at Blackfriars tube where you can stroll across the river or Cannon Street where you can cross on Southwark Bridge. Entry can be from the river side or more impressively from the east which takes you directly into the main turbine hall.

This is colossal and designed for gigantic works of art, many of them so big you can crawl inside. The turbine hall is seven storeys high and on the eastern face, reachable by escalators are the galleries themselves. They have broken with the usual historical and chronological order of hanging the artworks and have grouped them under the headings Still life,Landscape,Nude and History. The artworks are rotated so that you will not see the same thing when you revisit and are enlightening and very entertaining.

On the first level are the landscapes/still life including surreal sculptures and paintings. Salvador Dalis 'Transfiguration' is on display and the sculptures including his 'lobster telephone' are very impressive. On the second level is Max Ernsts' Celibes and impressive work by Matisse, Duchamp, Picasso and Andy Warhol. Fascist art also seems to be on display and the exhibt on propaganda in the Spanish civil war was very moving. But it is the next level - Nude/Action/Body - which gets the most reaction. At one point you enter a darkened cinema auditorium where a bearded man dances naked in slow motion to music. To observe the reaction of old ladies up from Surrey for the day is hysterical...."Ooohh... look at that man...he's showing his...."

But the Tate Modern has shown considerable flair in its design. Terraces face the river with comfy armchairs and reading matter for visitors. The views across the Thames taking in the Millennium bridge and the dome of St Pauls are fantastic. There are better views from the 7th level where you can look down on Shakespeare's globe and see Tower Bridge in the distance. There are plans to take people up another 93 feet to the gallerys central chimney for 360 degree views across London.

POSTSCRIPT

Hurrah! The Millennium Bridge is finally open. After nearly two years and five million pounds - 'the blade of light' is now accessible to the public. Having traversed it for the first time I have to say that it is an exceptionally beautiful bridge. The intricate silverwork set against the dome of St Pauls or the monolith of the Tate Modern is something special. It is rather high which means good views up and down the Thames as far as Tower Bridge. The Globe and HMS Belfast can now be seen from a birds eye view.

And what about the famous wobble? The engineers at Ove Garup have cured it with stabilisers and it is as solid as a rock. Unfortunately the damage has been done and every guidebook for the rest of time will probably mention the wobble as a cautionary tale (especially the mean ones such as Lonely Planet). But on the other hand there is the fact that all publicity is good publicity....

Katchanaburi - Erawan - amongst the waterfalls

Although I saw the islands and the ruins of Ayutthaya - I still count this as one of my highlights of Thailand.

Not far from Katchanaburi, you can take a tour or catch bus 8170 to the entrance - this national park is not to be missed, especially if you have never seen the jungle before. What makes it famous and draws in the Thais are its eight waterfalls, one after the other along a 3 mile trail leading up into the jungle. The jungle itself is very exciting, trees block off the sunlight, insects buzz around and the humidity could bowl over an elephant. If you are lucky you can spot birds, lizards, butterflies and monkeys - there are still elephants and tigers in Erawan but they are very rare.

The first waterfall is by the entrance and consists of a huge boulder being washed over by the river. There are changing huts and services nearby so you can swim in the pool. When we visited there a number of Thai families swimming and feeding the fishes.

The next waterfall is more of a climb and was a wide pool surrounded by great boles of trees, with foaming water gushing from above. This was a good place to spot monkeys. From here the trail gets steeper and there are another six waterfalls to see. It can get very gruelling with the intense humidity and having to watch where you put your feet due to lose stones and roots.

The final waterfall at the end of the trail was magnificent. It consisted of six waterfalls flowing into each other joined by shallows, cascades and turquoise pools. It was here that we joined some Thai lads and swam in the pool underneath the waterfall. The relief after all that humidity was wonderful. If you visit the Erawan National park, I swear you will want to come back. In fact I swear you will not want to climb out of the pools and leave the waterfalls behind

Jaipur - Jantar Mantar - looking at the stars

On first view this resembles a rather surreal theme park.

This is Maharajah Jai Singhs open-air astrological observatory and dates back to 1728. With its views of the forts on the Aravalli hills and the giant instruments that lay dotted around - this is an excellent stop if you are touring the city palace.

When you exit the City Palace it is only a 400 ft walk to the entrance to the Jantar Mantar. Unfortunately the walk is a gauntlet of hawkers, beggars, souvenir salesmen and auto-rickshaw drivers. The worst are the children who show no fear in shoving postcards in your face. This was one of the few times in India that I did crack - and when I reached the ticket booth and the man wanted to charge me another 50 rupees for a camera permit - he got a blast on the harassment of tourists in India. But once you are through, the Jantar Mantar is worth all the irritation.

Inside is a lawn covered open area containing the giant instruments that Jai Singh used to view the heavens. They are aligned on the ground and made out of a sherbet-coloured marble that is stained with age. They point at the sky and consist of slants, circles, brick curves and pillars. Most are triangular, but some are semi-circular and all resemble the props from a bizarre science fiction movie.

Near the north wall is one that resembles a 60ft high ski jump. On closer inspection it was a colossal sun-dial - positioned so that its shadow would fall on the surrounding instruments. One of the most memorable was the Jai Prakash Yantra which was two vast hemispheres dug into the ground. It was rather deep and consisted of two curving slabs adorned with centuries old zodiac signs. But the highlight for me was the view of the hills surrounding Jaipur. There, languously draping the summit, was the photogenic Ramalgah fort. So find yourself an instrument, settle down and take your time admiring the view.....

Istanbul - Sultanhammet mosque plus the Hippodrome

The beauty I see in Sultanhammet mosque is in its lines, in the elegant spaces beneath its dome, in the opening out of its side domes, in the proportion of its walls and empty spaces, in the counterpoint of its support towers and little arches, in its whiteness and the purity of its lead on the domes - none of which can be called picturesque. Even four hundred years after it was built I can look at Sultanhammet and see a mosque in its entirety, just as it first did, and see it as it was meant to be seen.

Orhan Pamuk, Istanbul: Memories of a City, 2005


I have to agree with him. Sultanhammet mosque, a.k.a. 'the blue mosque', is one of the most beautiful buildings in the world.

My first view was standing outside Hagia Sophia and turning one hundred and eighty degrees. It loomed across the gardens and fountains of Sultanhammet Square. Six minarets spread out from its base and its central dome is broken up by lots of little mini-domes which are touched with gold. One of the most exotic buildings in the world? I was dumbstruck by its beauty. The way dome climbed upon dome, and the way dome size and minaret combined to create one of the most mesmerising buildings I have ever seen.

This curvaceous masterpiece was one of the last great mosques to be built in what was then Constantinople. The architect was a student of the great Sinan. It's called 'the blue mosque' due to the grey sandstone, which when lit up at night and at certain times of the day, does indeed look blue. They light up Sultanhammet each evening for a son et lumiere . Istanbullus really look after the gardens between this and Hagia Sophia. There, gardens are clipped into topiary with little bowers and fountains. Just before the compound is an ancient washing facility where the faithful clean their feet before entering the mosque. A reminder of the importance that Islam gives to water and cleanliness.

In the first compound, you can see the details up close on the mosque. It resembled a mostrous bulbous fortress with arches dotted with intricate carvings. You may be approached by Istanbullu carpet salesmen here, but they are the soft sell ("Is there any point in me asking you to come to my shop?") and have to be the politest hawkers I have ever encountered. Crowds seem to pass into a courtyard then to the rear of the mosque. The queue to enter the building starts here, off come the shoes, and black plastic bags are provided to carry them. Then you pass through a succession of arches and, before you know it, you are gazing up at a titanic space. The main worship area has a ceiling of half-dome clambering over half-dome until it reaches 100 feet above you. Everything is light and echoey; white walls with hundreds of blue iznik tiles and a great iron candelabrum dangling 10 feet from the floor.

Easily, one of the best architectural experiences I have had. Everyone around me looked equally impressed whether craning their necks or taking a rest on the white carpet with their backs against the porphyry columns. I came out of Sultanhammet on a massive high and I never felt unwelcome in this muslim building. Istanbul is easy access Islam, a chance to experience the culture without the religious baggage you might encounter in other cities.

The Hippodrome

Literally across the road is one of the most ancient sites in the city, the famous Hippodrome. We now travel back even further in history to when Constantinople was Christian Byzantium, the lingering legacy of the Roman Empire. Nothing much remains now except an oval park in the shape of the old racing arena. A thousand or so years ago, this is where charioteers to the delight of the populace and under the gaze of the Byzantine Emperor. This was where coronations and parades went on, great rows of stone seats once stood where the traffic rings the park. The grass underfoot was once sawdust trodden on by gladiators and speeding charioteers. It takes a little imagination to bring the Hippodrome in its heyday back to life.

There are a couple of unique treasures remaining. Most striking is an Egyptian obelisque from the temple of Karnak dated to 1500BC. Emporer Theodosious had it positioned on a plinth in 390AD. The bas reliefs on the pedestal are of his family and him at the races. What struck me most about this 3500-year-old monument was that it looked brand new. There was nary a mark of age on the whole edifice. Nearby is a pit with a spiral column reaching up 20 feet, moulded to look like an entwining snake. It sprouted two snarling snake heads but these now reside in the national Archaeological museum. Finally, at the far end of the Hippodrome, is a column dating back to 480AD which is in the worst condition of all. Once wreathed in gold, but stripped bare by the Crusaders when they sacked the city in the infamous fourth crusade.

Most of all, the Hippodrome is a nice green little park in the middle of bustling touristy Istanbul. It is a place to rest those feet and try to imagine that where you are sitting now was once in the middle of whipping charioteers and thundering hooves.

Oh, don't you just wish you had been there? 

Ilha Grande - Tropical paradise with an eerie past

Ilha Grande is one of the most stunningly beautiful islands you can visit in Brazil. It is toted as 100% stress free with it's bountiful beaches, steamy rainforest, rolling mountains, and colonial architecture. It was cut off from the outside world for a long time and had an eerie reputation, meaning that tourists have only been allowed to visit. This means the island is pristine. The signs of mass tourism have not encroached on Ilha Grande making it an adventure for the independent traveler.

Ilha Grande is only accessible by ferry from the coastal town of Angros Dos Reis. Two ferries a day connect it with the little town of Agraao on Ilha Grande. The town itself is charming with soaring green pitons as a backdrop and it is stretched along a golden palm-fringed beach. The island is a place to kick back--to forget about the outside world and not just suntanning, but hiking and SCUBA diving are very popular. There are over 100 beaches on the island, most, like the gorgeous Lopes Mendes, require a boat to reach.

And what about the eerie repuation? Visitors have only been allowed since 1994, as before that it was a penal island. The word is that political prisoners were held on Ilha Grande, and mysterious ruins dot the jungle from this period. Even further back it was Brazil's quarantine station, a leper colony, and before that a pirate nest used by the infamous Jorge Grego. The only hidden treasures today are wide beaches, excellent diving, hummingbirds and monkeys, and the chance to kick back and enjoy the feeling of all stress drop away.

Ilha Grande is only accessible by ferry which departs from Angros dos Reis harbor at 10:05am and 3:15pm. The journey takes about two hours and you will pass through the Costa Verde (green coast) national park with it's jungle islands and azure waters. Ilha Grande itself is stunning, mile after mile of mountains with Atlantic rainforest stretching to their very peaks.

You will probably stay in the beautiful town of Agraao. The charm of colorful houses, palm trees, a simple church, and pretty pousadas can be overwhelming. Like I said, tourists have only been allowed on since 1994, so you are still an attraction to the isolated islanders. Get to Ilha Grande now, as five years down the line all this will have changed.

Pousadas abound on the island. If you arrive without booked accommodation, you can take advantage of the touts/hawkers who meet the ferry who will take you to a free room. Also around the harbor are numerous boat trips costing about 50 reals for the day. Each beach can be hiked from Agraao through jungle trails, but it is far less strenuous and exhausting to be deposited and collected by boat.

I travelled there with the SouthAmericanExperience bus (see separate journal). Their route leaves Rio and reaches Angros dos Reis about 3:00pm just in time to catch the ferry. Angros dos Reis is a pleasant town stretching up surrounding hills. From here you can carry on to the colonial city of Paraty or head into coffee country. You can catch a bus at the main bus stop as you enter the town including Sao Paulo (4 hours) and Rio de Janeiro (1.5 hours). Cheap hotels abound and money-changers and banks are along Rua do Commercial. The ferry is a huge catamaran carrying 200 people and only costs 4 reals to the island. If you can get a seat near the front as the views of the Costa Verde and its blue waters is beautiful.

There are a number of mercados and restaurants on the island. The focus during the evening is the main praca and the church is lit up with fairy lights. The bar/restaurante 'Verdinho da Ilha' seems to be where everyone ends up. The food and beer here are superb as is the 'forro' music which may get you out of your seat and start dancing.

Melbourne - chrome riverwalk along the Yarra

"You have to fight the temptation to gamble in Melbourne. One of the things I did not expect was a full-scale Vegas-style casino in the city centre within a stone's throw of the Yarra river. One evening I sat perched on a stool while the croupier spun the roulette wheel. Without knowing it, $30 was quickly up in smoke. But I enjoyed myself at the Crown Casino Complex. It brought back memories of Las Vegas. Melbourne and Las Vegas? Surely two different cities? Well, yes and no, just take a look at the CBD skyline from the riverwalk. It certainly looks like an American city.

And the best place to see the skyline is the riverwalk, which stretches from the Melbourne Exhibition centre to Princes Bridge. The Southgate centre is its focal point and is a upmarket shopping complex with lots of attractions, such as smart cafes, restaurants, boutiques, and art galleries, all overlooking the Yarra river. I rather liked the Yarra river with its mustard-coloured water. It was a dirty silty river that reminds me of the Thames. It stands in wonderful contrast to the chrome and steel of 21st-century Melbourne. The one remaining thing in the city outside their reach of gentrification.

The riverwalk can be reached through numerous ways. Buses and trams up from St Kilda pass over Princes Bridge, which has staircase access to the river. And there are numerous bridges across from the CBD. My favourite was the pedestrian bridge from beneath Flinders Street station, which is a modern piece of art (see photo). This was where they wheeled their bikes across the river to take advantage of the cycle paths along the South Bank promenade. And the views here are extraordinary, the long sweep of the river with the skyscrapers as a backdrop. If you look to the west, there stands the 55 floors of the Rialto Towers, which is quite a sight when the sun catches it on a cold spring day.

The promenade itself is impressive. Millions of dollars have been spent to create a pleasant recreational area. Marble and polished stone has been laid out and made an impressive walkway decked with potted plants, arc lights and modernist statues. From here you can take boat trips down the Yarra or most likely find your legs propelling you to the Crown Casino Complex. Escalators will whisk you up to a huge entertainment room with a waterfall, strobe lighting and a Lamborghini revolving on a podium. It's a rule around the world that a casino must try for class but end up as kitsch, and this was no exception. The purple decor was blinding and the carpet was so deep you were in danger of losing your feet. Golden globes dangled from the ceiling, and there were rows and rows of gambling machines all standing to attention like an army of soldiers.

The plasma-screened one-armed bandits looked too complicated for this novice, but I do know my roulette. I sat down to a game surrounded by a lot of enthusiastic Chinese. An old Australian lady and I formed a syndicate to try and stay in the game. No luck! The casino took our wallets--oh well!

Iguacu Falls - practicalities - Brazilian/Argentine side

If you fly down to Iguacu make sure you sit on the left hand side of the plane. 

As you approach the city the pilot banks the aircraft to give a stunning view of the chocolate brown Iguacu river 4,000 ft below. From this height you can see the great swathe of the National Park rolling away to the horizon with it's tropical rainforest stretching for tens of miles. The chocolate brown of the Iguacu weaves it's way through this jungle with the promontory of Brazil on one side and the curve of Argentina on the other. We could see a mighty rift in the earth, spume rose from it's depths and the cascading white of the falls could be seen from the plane. The whiteness of the falls contrasted with the reddish brown of the meandering river and green jungle to create an amazing spectacle .

And this was just a prelude of what was to come.

Whilst Niagara is only a short bus ride from Toronto and Victoria in easy reach of Bulawayo - Iguacu is a long way from the tourist mecca of Rio de Janeiro. In my opinion, no visitor who comes to Brazil should miss Iguacu Falls but there is the practicalities of reaching them which is quite tricky. The bus from Rio costs $50 and takes 24 hours stopping at Sao Paulo and Curitiba. 

No trains really reach it from Rio de Janeiro state so that leaves air as the best way to reach the Falls. Airfare with VASP or VARIG comes to about £100 return and there is one plane a day from Rio de Janeiro. As well as the spectacular approach described above it is probably the best solution for those travellers who are short of time. The little airport at Foz de Iguacu is very busy and about a mile from the town costing about 10 reals. There are buses just outside which will drop you outside the local bus terminal on Avenida Kubitschek.

I would recommend a package to see the falls. There are numerous tour operators in Ipanema and Copacabana and competition keeps prices low and quality high. I bagged a tour with 'Shangri-La' for £166 ($276) which included flight, accommodation, park entry, tours and dinner - which is an absolute bargain. The tour was run by Ipracom Travel (travel@ipracom.com) in Rua Visconda de Piraji in Ipanema. The advantage of this is being with like-minded tourists (providing you can speak each others languages) and you don't have to worry about travel and border formalities. But if you want to do it independently you can book accommodation at the tourismo in the airport when you arrive. Taxis and buses just cost a couple of reals and cheap hotels abound in Foz de Iguacu.

Some people tend to base themselves at Puerto Iguazu in Argentina. This is a much smaller town with much less tourist facilites. Foz de Iguacu is almost a city and is laid out in a grid pattern, it is perfectly safe to wander around in. And the favela which is down by the river is a long way from the tourist area. In fact Foz de Igacu has a good choice of hotels, bars and restaurantes and you must try one of the churrasaria's while you are here. The streetlife is just as exciting as anywhere else in Brazil and down here on the borderlands people are much more friendly and natural then the cities of the north.

Getting to the Brazilian side.

Put aside at least an afternoon for the Brazilian side. The spectacle of the overall panorama of the falls needs time to take in. It can be reached by public transport from Foz de Iguacu or on a pre-arranged tour. Most hotels in Iguacu will have their own tour agencies or know of someone who runs them. With a tour you don't have to worry about transport and admittance but will be constrained by time and may be more rushed then you want to be. If you do it independently then you are your own master (or mistress?) and can spend hours lingering at the falls. Both have advantages.

You can get to the falls simply by your own transport. A taxi from central Foz will be just twenty reals and five reals more per hour for waiting. They will drop you off at the park entrance which means you still have a long walk along the Avenida Cataratas to the start of the Falls trails. Buses are cheaper and go right into the centre of the Brazilian park at 2 reals from central Foz de Iguacu. They run from the Terminal Urbana (city station) which is opposite the military barracks along Avenida Kubitschek along the northern part of the city centre. This is easily walkable from your hotel if you are staying in the city and the green plush buses run every twenty minutes. They will wait at the entrance whilst you get your 8 real entry to the park and then disgorge you at the visitor centre - a short walk to the start of the trails. And to get back, simply wait at the same place and pay your 2 real fare.

Getting to the Argentinean side

This is much trickier, involving a border crossing - but still can be done. On my flight back to Rio I chatted with a Spanish traveller who had done both sides independently. He had done the Argentinean side in one day whilst staying in Brazil but this required some forward planning and a change of four buses. Here's what to do...

From the terminal urbana in Foz de Iguacu look for green buses with Puerto Iguasu on the front. These are heading for the Argentine border so DON'T FORGET YOUR PASSPORT. Also check you are not one of these nationalities who requires a visa for Argentina - UK, US and EU citizens are OK but we had an Indian tourist on our tour and he had to get a visa to visit Argentina even for the day. The bus costs only 2 reals and heads west along the BR-77 to Argentina. Interestingly when you cross the Ponte Trancedo Neves bridge where the Iguacu is calm and flat the vegetation you see on the other side is Paraguay.

At the border unless you are of Argentine or Brazilian nationality you will have to get out and go through customs. The bus will leave without you - but don't panic - you can use your ticket on the next bus which will be about twenty minutes later. Now you are in Argentina the bus will drive into the town of Puerto Iguasu. Here you get out and look around for a bus marked Puerto Canoas which stops at the entrance to the NP - these run every hour. The bus will drop you at the entrance and it is a short walk to the visitors centre and the start of the miniature railway to Garganta di Diablo. Taxis from the bus station cost 40 pesos.

And of course to get back to Brazil you have to do it all in reverse including getting off the bus at the border and catching the next one. An early start is needed for a full day at the falls and you will probably fall back on getting taxis to and from the border. The advantage of taking a tour is that the guide will do all the border formalities for you while you sit in the vehicle. I get very nervous around any kind of borders as I was once trapped on the wrong side of the Mexican/Texan border with no visa to get back in America (it's a long story...) but at the Argentina border I was especially nervous. You see......I am British..

Argentineans are a lovely people I am sure but I kept my mouth shut and head down just in case. The rest of our tour laughed at me as there was a big sign just inside the border declaring

'LAS MALVINAS EST ARGENTINE' (The Falklands are Argentine).

I pulled my cap over my face, sank into my seat and affected an Irish accent...

Gay London - Manchester - Theres nowt so queer as folk

I bet you have never thought of having a holiday in Manchester? 

Well, you would be missing something - it's an extraordinary city. Of all the cities in Britain that have pulled themselves up by their bootstraps (and thats going against much-applauded renaissances in Glasgow, Leeds, and Cardiff)- Manchester has to be the most successful. It makes a fantastic base for touring Liverpool, north Wales, Chester, the Peak and Lake District and even the Yorkshire moors. And you can come back after all that quaint scenery and hit some of the best nightlife in Europe. It's where the groundbreaking drama "Queer as Folk" was set and the "gay village" is now massive and is based around Canal Street and its trendy bars. Rather then giving it a miss - you will be cursing yourself why didn't you discover it sooner.

Of course I am biased, its where I went to university, and that institution gives it a youthful feel and much more tolerance than other cities of its size. Accommodation is cheap and cheerful and as it doesn't get many tourists you will be more of a novelty then in jaded London or York. Train connections with the capital are fast and frequent and direct flights from America and the continent means it is now very easy to get there. But you are asking yourself what is there to do? All I have seen are pictures of back-to-back terraces and smoky chimneys. Well, I shall tell you...

Manchester, there is no denying it, is a child of the industrial revoloution. It did not evolve naturally like Oxford or Salisbury and so it has thousands of tiny back-to-back narrow streets and a cityscape of chimneys. If you have ever seen the longrunning soap 'Coronation Street' you will know what to expect. But it is a very wealthy city and the designer shopping down St Anns Square is worth a look. A colossal IRA bomb ripped the guts out of the city centre and allowed them to redesign it with a huge plaza, major shopping centre and wide vistas - Manchester town centre now looks rather modernist and attractive. But the city is probably best used as a base to visit the surrounding area, buses from Chorlton Street bus station head in every direction

Apart from the Science museum I would make for the Granada Studios tour and theme park. Its rather small by American standards but is wonderfully inventive and friendly. Grenada makes some very popular dramas including 'Coronation Street' where you can wander the set and poke your nose into the 'Rovers Return' inn, but also Sherlock Holmes, The Jewel in The Crown and the like. But most enjoyably is a recreation of the House of Commons where you take up the seats of the MP's. You are involved in a mock debate where you are either the government or the opposition - and the result can be hysterically funny.

But most importantly it is a massive gay centre especially around Canal Street. Due to the success of the television series the area has become very trendy amongst straights as well as gays. And summer nights sees crowds of hundreds of people moving between the bars. There are countless bars and clubs; below are some of the most popular.

'Mantos', 46 Canal Street, Sat-Sun 4.00pm-6.00am

The bar which started it all. Very stylish multi-level bar with bottled beer and up-to-the-minute music. Patrons look down on others from a balcony and the food is very good including Cajun chicken breast and speghetti al pesto.

'Velvet', 2 Canal Street,12.00pm - 11.30pm

Velvet out trends the trendiest. The place has had a fortune spent on it. The staircase has a fishtank embedded in it and in the toilets are the QVC shopping channel. The rest of the bar is full of red curtains and pink and blue chairs. It's surprisingly friendly and that Manchester speciality, Boddingtons is on tap - what more could you want?

'Via Fossa', 28-30 Canal Street, 11.00am to 2.00am

My favourite bar in Manchester. Its decked out on many levels like a German gothic cathedral with lots of nooks and crannies. The place does tremendous business and several scenes form 'Queer as Folk' were filmed here as the evening warms up the crowd gets friendlier and local office workers are often here to join in the fun.

'Paradise Factory',112 Princess Street, 10.00pm-6.00am.

In the fickle world of Manchester clubland 'Paradise' may have gone already. But if is still there then you are in for a good night. Housed in an old warehouse and on five levels each with a different type of music - house, techno, handbag, rave etc - the place is amazing! It gets very packed and sweaty and if you aren't into drugs maybe not worth a look. This place was one of the instigators of the Madchester craze in the early nineities - and after a visit you can see why the city is so well loved...