London - The Tate Modern - views of the Thames

Edina and Patsy from 'Absolutely Fabulous' would love the new Tate Modern.

 But then so does everybody else - it received one million visitors in the first month of it's opening and along with the 'London Eye' has been the big hit of Millennium year. Critics have praised it and the public love it. Even if you don't like or understand modern art the new Tate Modern is worth crossing the channel, or even the Atlantic, to take a look.

The collection of modern British art outgrew its old home in Pimlico and was moved from the gallery now christened the Tate Britain to the new gallery. It stands in a converted power station on the south bank of the Thames opposite St Pauls. It is a striking landmark with a great colossal bulk and a central freestanding chimney that towers above the river. It was converted by the Swiss architects Herzog and Meuron who turned a derelict power station into a sparkling new art gallery.

To reach it is very easy. It forms the focus of most people's wander along the Thames Walk so you could walk to it from Waterloo if you arrive on the Eurostar. But from another part of London alight at Blackfriars tube where you can stroll across the river or Cannon Street where you can cross on Southwark Bridge. Entry can be from the river side or more impressively from the east which takes you directly into the main turbine hall.

This is colossal and designed for gigantic works of art, many of them so big you can crawl inside. The turbine hall is seven storeys high and on the eastern face, reachable by escalators are the galleries themselves. They have broken with the usual historical and chronological order of hanging the artworks and have grouped them under the headings Still life,Landscape,Nude and History. The artworks are rotated so that you will not see the same thing when you revisit and are enlightening and very entertaining.

On the first level are the landscapes/still life including surreal sculptures and paintings. Salvador Dalis 'Transfiguration' is on display and the sculptures including his 'lobster telephone' are very impressive. On the second level is Max Ernsts' Celibes and impressive work by Matisse, Duchamp, Picasso and Andy Warhol. Fascist art also seems to be on display and the exhibt on propaganda in the Spanish civil war was very moving. But it is the next level - Nude/Action/Body - which gets the most reaction. At one point you enter a darkened cinema auditorium where a bearded man dances naked in slow motion to music. To observe the reaction of old ladies up from Surrey for the day is hysterical...."Ooohh... look at that man...he's showing his...."

But the Tate Modern has shown considerable flair in its design. Terraces face the river with comfy armchairs and reading matter for visitors. The views across the Thames taking in the Millennium bridge and the dome of St Pauls are fantastic. There are better views from the 7th level where you can look down on Shakespeare's globe and see Tower Bridge in the distance. There are plans to take people up another 93 feet to the gallerys central chimney for 360 degree views across London.

POSTSCRIPT

Hurrah! The Millennium Bridge is finally open. After nearly two years and five million pounds - 'the blade of light' is now accessible to the public. Having traversed it for the first time I have to say that it is an exceptionally beautiful bridge. The intricate silverwork set against the dome of St Pauls or the monolith of the Tate Modern is something special. It is rather high which means good views up and down the Thames as far as Tower Bridge. The Globe and HMS Belfast can now be seen from a birds eye view.

And what about the famous wobble? The engineers at Ove Garup have cured it with stabilisers and it is as solid as a rock. Unfortunately the damage has been done and every guidebook for the rest of time will probably mention the wobble as a cautionary tale (especially the mean ones such as Lonely Planet). But on the other hand there is the fact that all publicity is good publicity....