Monday, June 2, 2014

Sydney - the eighties revisited, Darling Harbour



 The eighties seemed to be year zero for Sydney.


It resulted in a capitalist building frenzy that resulted in a skyline resembling Seattle or Los Angeles. Everything in this city seems to be so sparkling new. Everything is on show. Everything has be re-gentrified—a 19th-century building is given a glass roof, an office building a chrome atrium, a restaurant with outside seating on silver chairs. This is not meant as a criticism (I'm a big fan of the city). Sydney has a worldwide impressive reputation, a reputation it must keep up and it is constantly refurbishing itself. This results in sections that are as clean as a whistle and occasionally verge on sterile. Once in a while, not often I admit, you can't but wish for a bit of grime in Sydney just to show that it is human.

And so with Darling Harbour.

Personally, I give it top marks. It is a lovely clean environment devoted to pleasure and has some superb attractions. Within easy reach of Circular Quay or the CBD it is a "nice" place to spend a morning, perhaps to escape the summer heat in its air-conditioned attractions or let the kids play in the numerous child-friendly fountains that dot the area. Completed in 1988 it was once a set of industrial docks blighting the western shore of the CBD. Millions of dollars were pumped into the old wharves to create some superb attractions flanked by good restaurants, lively bars and some huge nightclubs. Everything is washed through by the waters of the harbour and scruffy ibis' dot the area hoping to find tidbits left by the tourists.


To get there is easy - white concrete bridges cross the expressways from the CBD. Metrorail passes its western shore with stops at Haymarket, Exhibition and the casino at Star City. The famous monorail glides in a great loop taking in the harbour and George Street. You can get up close as it travels on 10ft high stilts on the Pyrmont Bridge which cuts the harbour in two. The topside of the bridge is covered in paved tiles, flags and gives good views northward to the Harbour Bridge.

The attractions here are very impressive. I've covered the Aquarium in another journal but surrounding the water are theNational Maritime Museum with a warship moored outside, The Powerhouse Museum reputed to be one of the most high-tech in Australia and Paddy's Markets. Everything is complimented by numerous malls and restaurants plus a Chinese Garden, an IMAX theatre, and open-air restaurants. My favourite though was Star City Casino which is in Pyrmont. An escalator takes you up into a "Las Vegas" style casino with floor shows, roulette and rows and rows of "pokies"

By taking the monorail to Galleries Victoria you can visit the Queen Victoria Building. It reminded me of Harrods - a bombastic exterior taking up an entire block. But inside? Inside is beautiful - everything is brownwood and tiled. An absolute gem..





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