Ilha Grande is one of the most
stunningly beautiful islands you can visit in Brazil. It is toted as 100%
stress free with it's bountiful beaches, steamy rainforest, rolling mountains,
and colonial architecture. It was cut off from the outside world for a long
time and had an eerie reputation, meaning that tourists have only been allowed
to visit. This means the island is pristine. The signs of mass tourism have not
encroached on Ilha Grande making it an adventure for the independent traveler.
Ilha
Grande is only accessible by ferry from the coastal town of Angros Dos Reis.
Two ferries a day connect it with the little town of Agraao on Ilha Grande. The
town itself is charming with soaring green pitons as a backdrop and it is
stretched along a golden palm-fringed beach. The island is a place
to kick back--to forget about the outside world and not just suntanning, but hiking
and SCUBA diving are very popular. There are over 100 beaches on the island,
most, like the gorgeous Lopes Mendes, require a boat to reach.
And
what about the eerie repuation? Visitors have only been allowed since 1994, as
before that it was a penal island. The word is that political prisoners were
held on Ilha Grande, and mysterious ruins dot the jungle from this period. Even
further back it was Brazil's quarantine station, a leper colony, and before
that a pirate nest used by the infamous Jorge Grego. The only hidden treasures
today are wide beaches, excellent diving, hummingbirds and monkeys, and the
chance to kick back and enjoy the feeling of all stress drop away.
Ilha Grande is only accessible by ferry
which departs from Angros dos Reis harbor at 10:05am and 3:15pm. The journey
takes about two hours and you will pass through the Costa Verde (green coast)
national park with it's jungle islands and azure waters. Ilha Grande itself is
stunning, mile after mile of mountains with Atlantic rainforest stretching to
their very peaks.
You
will probably stay in the beautiful town of Agraao. The charm of colorful
houses, palm trees, a simple church, and pretty pousadas can be overwhelming.
Like I said, tourists have only been allowed on since 1994, so you are still an
attraction to the isolated islanders. Get to Ilha Grande now, as five years
down the line all this will have changed.
Pousadas
abound on the island. If you arrive without booked accommodation, you can take
advantage of the touts/hawkers who meet the ferry who will take you to a free
room. Also around the harbor are numerous boat trips costing about 50 reals for
the day. Each beach can be hiked from Agraao through jungle trails, but it is
far less strenuous and exhausting to be deposited and collected by boat.
I travelled there with the
SouthAmericanExperience bus (see separate journal). Their route leaves Rio and
reaches Angros dos Reis about 3:00pm just in time to catch the ferry. Angros
dos Reis is a pleasant town stretching up surrounding hills. From here you can
carry on to the colonial city of Paraty or head into coffee country. You can
catch a bus at the main bus stop as you enter the town including Sao Paulo (4
hours) and Rio de Janeiro (1.5 hours). Cheap hotels abound and money-changers
and banks are along Rua do Commercial. The ferry is a huge catamaran carrying
200 people and only costs 4 reals to the island. If you can get a seat near the
front as the views of the Costa Verde and its blue waters is beautiful.
There are a number of mercados and
restaurants on the island. The focus during the evening is the main praca and
the church is lit up with fairy lights. The bar/restaurante 'Verdinho da Ilha'
seems to be where everyone ends up. The food and beer here are superb as is the
'forro' music which may get you out of your seat and start dancing.
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